Ace

The dry shake is essential for a proper foam. Without it, the egg white doesn't emulsify properly and you get a thin, unstable foam rather than the thick, pillowy head that defines this drink. Some bartenders add a small piece of dry ice or a spring from a Hawthorne strainer to the dry shake to help emulsification — both work well.

Raspberry syrup can be made by combining equal parts fresh raspberries, sugar, and water, then straining. The tartness of the raspberries should balance the lemon juice — if your syrup is very sweet, reduce it to ¼ oz and add a touch more lemon. A floral gin like Hendrick's or a London Dry like Beefeater both work beautifully here.

The Clover Club predates Prohibition — it was the signature drink of the Clover Club, a Philadelphia literary and legal society that met at the Bellevue-Stratford Hotel in the early 1900s. It fell out of fashion during Prohibition and the subsequent decades, but was revived by Julie Reiner at her Brooklyn bar Clover Club (named in its honor) in the mid-2000s.

Clover Club with Chambord

Replace the raspberry syrup with ½ oz of Chambord black raspberry liqueur. The Chambord adds a deeper, more complex berry note and a slight floral quality. Reduce the lemon juice slightly to compensate for the liqueur's sweetness.

Pink Lady

Replace the raspberry syrup with ½ oz of grenadine and add ½ oz of applejack or Calvados. The apple brandy adds warmth and depth, and the grenadine gives the foam a deeper pink color. A pre-Prohibition classic in its own right.